I did not expect a
wealth of Biblical connects when I visited Jordan in November 2011. But here’s
a glimpse of what I chanced upon….
Mt. NEBO
When I first looked out at the mists over the Holy Land of
Canaan from Mt. Nebo
in Jordan
in November 2011, I wondered: is this what Moses saw 3,000 years ago? Can this
be where the ancient prophet/ lawgiver was buried, reportedly aged 120, after
40 years of wandering in the wilderness, after leading the exodus of the Israelites
out of Egypt, across the Red Sea?
Did I see what Moses saw? |
All that is visible from Mt. Nebo |
On a clear day, I learn we can look out over the Dead Sea,
the Jordan River Valley and the even Judean hills.
Perhaps even glimpse the distant domes of Bethlehem
and Jerusalem.
No matter that I’m Hindu by birth or an infrequent
temple-goer, it steeps into me that I’m bound to a nebulous global past of
history/ myth/ religion by my mere presence at Mt. Nebo.
I remember making Easter eggs with Lynn,
sharing Id biriyani with Muslim friends, tucking into a Navroze feast with
Zoroastrian friends. How alike are we all? Are our mind-divides merely socially
and politically imposed?
Moses was buried here |
Minutes before I looked out from Mt.
Nebo, I was stunned by a monolithic
sculpture created by Vicenzo Bianchi in 2000 at the entrance to Mt. Nebo to
mark the late Pope John Paul II’s visit to Mt. Nebo.
The Latin phrase from the Bible (Ephesians 4:6) at its
base reads: ‘Unus Deus Pater Omnium Super Omnes.’ In translation? ‘One God and
Father of all, who is above all.’ That’s in sync with my individual beliefs.
'One God, and Father of all....' |
Near the viewing point, where the
late Pope made his millennial address, stands an intricate bronze cross, over
which a serpent intertwines. Our guide Abdul tells us this harks back to when
God advised Moses to carry a bronze serpent on a pole to ward off the plague he
had sent to kill the Israelites in rebellion. Those who looked up at the
serpent were spared their lives. The New Testament looks at the raised serpent
as a symbol of the raising of Jesus on the cross, bringing hope to those who
looked up at him. Later, of course, we came to recognize this symbol as that of
~ guess what? ~ the pharmaceutical industry.
In the 4th century, a
church was erected at Mt.
Nebo to commemorate the
end of Moses’ life. We learn that some stones that date that far back still
exist around the apse in the church. From the 5th and 6th
centuries to today, the church grew into a stunning basilica that celebrated
brilliant Byzantine mosaics within.
With Lakshmi Sharath in front of the Serpentine Cross |
Franciscan monks, who ‘purchased’ Mt. Nebo
in the 1930s, still have a monastery atop it. They close their gates to
visitors an hour before sunset.
Back in Bangalore,
I learn that six tombs lie beneath the mosaic-studded floor of the Moses Memorial
Church at Mt. Nebo.
The earliest of these mosaic remnants is a panel with a braided cross.
A mosaic from Mt. Nebo's Moses Memorial Church |
MADABA
Earlier the same day, we had stopped
at Madaba, Jordan’s unique ‘city of mozaics’.
At its 6th century Byzantine Church of St. George, we found evidence
that took our breath away ~ a still extant mosaic floor map of Jerusalem
and the Holy Land, the earliest religious map
in any form recorded in global art history. Probably created between 542 and 570 AD, historians reckon that the
map was created for the Christian community of Madaba, a city that then doubled
as the seat of the bishop.
In front of the Greek Orthodox Church, Madaba |
Inside the Byzantine church of St. George |
Historically,
Madaba was conquered by the Persian empire in
614 AD. By the 8th century, the Islamic Umayyad rulers reportedly
removed some figurative motifs from the original map. Largely destroyed by an
earthquake in 746, Madaba was abandoned. In 1884, while constructing a Greek Orthodox
Church at the site of its
ancient predecessors, the builders stumbled upon the map. Today, guides seat
tourists on benches in front of maps labelled in French, German or English outside
the church, narrate its story, then usher them into the church. All the better
to preserve it, I suppose.
The population of
Madaba is half-Muslim, half-Christian. There’s a laidback feel to the city that
reminds me of Bangalore,
my own city.
A detail of the Madaba mosaic floor map |
Composed of over 2 million tesserae
or mosaic tiles, the Madaba map currently measures 16 by 5 metres. It
encompasses an area from Lebanon
in the north to the Nile delta to the south; from the western Mediterranean Sea
to the Eastern Desert. Does it have a folding perspective?
Not quite. Is it an aerial view? Not entirely. Its 150-odd towns and villages
are labeled in Greek. Among the wonders it maps are:
~ the mouth of the Jordan
river, where John the Baptist was baptized
~ Jericho, ringed by palms
~ two fishing boats on the Dead Sea
~ Jerusalem,
complete with the Damascus Gate, the Lions’ Gate, the Tower of David,
and the north-south Cardo Maximus
~ Neapolis, Askalon, Pelusium,
Charachmoba: each city detailed, almost street by street
Some of the icons on the map are fascinating.
Abdul points out that a deer symbolizes John the Baptist, while a Greek lion stands
for the wicked Herod!
Madaba city is a living museum. So
much to see. So little time to take it all in. But we are running late. We bypass
the Madaba Archaeological Park,
the Madaba Museum,
the Burnt Church and the Apostles' Church. The
modern city, we learn is built on ancient ruins. So, locals
often stumble upon ancient mosaics under their houses, garages and even
gardens!
We gobble our way through tabbouleh/
baba ghanouj/ hummus and other delicious mezze starters at the Haret Jdoudna (Garden
of our Ancestors) complex of a courtyard restaurant and craft complex. Journo-tourists
on the run, we dash into a tiny souvenir shop to pick up fridge magnets and other
trinkets for folks back home.
In and out of a Madaba souvenir shop |
En route to the Dead Sea, I think of
how much I want to deconstruct crafts stories for my readers back in India. We stop
briefly at a rambling craft store. But the goldsmiths and metal workers have
left for home by late afternoon.
To offset my disappointment, I
listen to Ismath. Smiling, she shares glimpses of her life. She has practiced
the mosaic craft for eight-odd years. She originally learnt it during a two
year diploma course at the Madaba
School for Mosaic Art, inaugurated in
1994 by Queen Noor, the widow of Jordan’s late King Hussein. Its
students learn to restore discovered mosaics. Likewise, they interpret and
extend the craft with more contemporary interpretations.
Ismath works on a Tree of Life mosaic |
Ismath, when I meet her, is working on a traditional Tree of
Life, a theme/ motif as popular in India
as in Jordan.
Each of the chips she uses is natural. The greys and blacks stem from volcanic
stones; the oranges, red and browns from the brilliant-hued sandstone of Petra. The spectrum spans
over 26 hues.
A mosaic piece about a foot square would take Ismath (or
Munir/ Saif at tables nearby) about 45 days if they work normal-sized chips
with their tweezers, pliers and flour glue. Or even 60 days if they opt for
micro-chips.
It would sell for about 1700 Jordanian dinar (INR 1,22,400) in
the marketplace. Way beyond my budget, I think, as I turn away to seek other
wonders.
Yes, the Jordanian dinar is a strong currency today. We
exchange $USD 200 for JD 141.
I think: I’m lucky that I can access more affordable
handicrafts in India.
BETHANY BEYOND THE JORDAN
One morning, we are told we are going to visit the spot
where John the Baptist baptized Jesus Christ in the river Jordan. Really?
I waited with bated breath for the plot to unravel.
Have folks in the area always known where the original site
was? Not really, by all local accounts. In 1994, a Jordan-Israel peace pact
paved the way for a significant Middle East
peace treaty. Two years later, historians confirmed that they had found the
original baptismal site of Jesus Christ.
John the Baptist church |
The site, between Tall Mar Elias (in Arabic) and the John
the Baptist church on the east bank of the Jordan, is where stories abound.
Elijah is said to have ascended to heaven in a whirlwind of fire from here.
Perhaps that triggered John’s decision to base his mission at the same
location. For, like the earlier prophet, John confronted the religious ‘laxity’
of his time. That’s besides announcing that a Messiah was imminent.
According to the Bible (John
10.40), after being threatened with stoning in Jerusalem,
‘Jesus went back across the Jordan
to the place where John had been baptizing in the early days.’
Baptized by John, anointed by God, it was from Bethany that Jesus Christ
launched his public ministry at the age of 30. His first disciples ~ Simon,
Peter, Andrew, Philip and Nathaniel ~ first gathered around him here. The
evidence? Architectural remains, pottery, coins and stone objects confirm that
this site was used as a human settlement early in 1 A.D., when Jesus and John
lived.
A 2nd or 3rd century prayer hall at Bethany |
A stone plaque about the chapels of the Jordan river |
Steps lead into a chapel under another chapel |
Additional sites around confirm this evidence. Such as the
three chapels built by the Byzantines, 50 yards from the baptism site. The
earliest of the three is on stilts, to allow for the seasonal flooding of the Jordan river. We peer into chambers beneath the existing
planks and earthwork, at remains from a solid prayer site from times past. That’s
besides the gooseflesh moment of coming across a 2nd or 3rd
century ‘prayer hall’ at Bethany.
Across the Jordan river lies Israel. We were dissuaded from
taking too many photographs across the river border, as armed soldiers
patrol the barbed-wire fenced other bank.
A baptism on the Israeli side of the Jordan river |
But there was one shot we could not resist ~ when two women
of the church in flowing robes came down the Israeli steps to the Jordan river. And there, we witnessed the baptism of a
third woman.
It was an act of faith we could not help subscribing to.
THE RIVER JORDAN
As we walk towards the baptism site, we look onto dry
grasses, withered vegetation, and a stream that’s almost dry that November.
“This is the route by the river Jordan
where Moses led those fleeting Egypt,”
explains Abdul.
The river Jordan today |
These thickets, once the pride of Jordan,
include tamarisk, willow and Euphrates poplar
trees. Walking past, it was hard to imagine that when Jesus lived, the
vegetation was so thick that wild animals thronged the green. Lions, tigers,
bears, hyenas and jackals were reportedly sighted even by 19th
century explorers.
Today, the Jordan
winds its way from the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea
as a small, rather dirty stream. No doubt this owes much to the extensive use
of its water resources by both Israel
and Jordan.
If the course of the river ran straight,
it would cover just 96.5 km. But it meanders, so runs through a 209 km. course instead.
SITES OF MORE
BIBLICAL LORE
~ According to the Old Testament, it was in the land of Jordan that God first manifested Himself
to Man
~ When Cain killed his brother Abel, he was banished ‘east
of Eden’ by
God. This may refer to the ‘Cities of Refuge,’ east of the Jordan
river, where a person who had killed another involuntarily could
seek refuge until a fair trial was possible.
~ The lives of Moses, Joshua, Elijah, Elisha, John the
Baptist and Jesus are interlinked through the ‘Plains of Moab,’ east of the
river.
~ Jacob wrestled with the Angel of God here
~ Sodom and Gomorrah
were located on the Dead Sea plain, perhaps in
the ancient walled cities of Bad ed-Dhra’ and Numeira
~ Lot’s wife was turned into a pillar of salt while leaving Sodom because she looked back,
against God’s directive. This was probably in the early or middle Bronze Age,
around 2500-1500 BC.
~ Lot’s daughters
gave birth to sons whose descendents were the Ammonite and Moabite people, with
their kingdoms in central Jordan
~ King David “slew 18,000 Edomites” (Samuel 8.13) in the Valley of Salt,
along the Dead Sea’s coastal plain.
~ The King’s Highway in Jordan is the world’s oldest
continuously used communication route. Abraham ~ a common patriarch of Jews,
Christians and Muslims ~ who passed through northern, central and southern Jordan, would certainly have used this route on
his journey from Mesopotamia to Canaan.
The text comes alive with the use of your beautiful photographs....I especially enjoyed your piece on Shekhawati. Great stuff, Aditi.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Dharmendar. Good to know you enjoyed the sharing.
DeleteWow! Aditi! The writing is so vivid and exciting.. And yes.. wnat to visit Jordan. Love 'mulled wine'.You my friend are truly gifted.. Eliza
ReplyDeleteThanks, Eliza! Super happy to know you're browsing Mulled Ink!
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