(Note: This travelogue dates back to 2000)
All that is left of Chittaurgarh today are ruins. All the remnants of
royalty shifted when Maharaja Udai Singh built Udaipur in 1567 A.D., and the centre of
Mewari power moved there.
Yet, incredible stories of Rajput valour linger amidst the crumbling stones
of this magnificent fortress, 90 km from Udaipur.
The stories resound from the ornate, umbrella-shaped chhatris, the broken walls
and the decaying pillars of the 8th century Sun temple that Muslim invaders
desecrated. The ruling Suryavansh, or Sun dynasty, later changed its allegiance
to Kali, installed in the adjacent Kalika Mata temple built in the 14th
century. For doesn't Ma Kali symbolise power and valour?
As the stories surround us, we wonder: What is history? And what is myth?
How much is folklore? What is the truth? It is impossible to draw borderlines
for, at every turn, the shadows merge.
Chittaurgarh was once the capital of the Suryavansh rulers of Mewar, the
extended area around Udaipur.
The Rajput lineage of Rana Kumbha and Rana Bikramjeet ruled from this fort city
or garh, built by the later Maurya rulers in the 7th century A.D., spra wling
over 700 acres atop a 180-metre-high hill.
Rana Kumbha's expansive palace evokes the exquisite Rani Padmini, whose
complexion was so porcelain-fine that they say one could see the water run down
her throat as she drank. Hearing of her legendary beauty, the powerful
Allauddin Khilji from Delhi
laid siege to Chittaurgarh for six months in 1303.
Padmini's husband, Rana Ratan Singh, feared that Allauddin would lay
Chittaurgarh waste if he was denied a glimpse of her dazzling beauty. So, her
two brothers escorted Allauddin to a hall in a pavilion opposite Padmini's
zenana mahal in the lake. From here, Allauddin was permitted to view in a
mirror her reflection on the sun-rippled waters of the lake.
Even more obsessed after this tantalising vision, Allauddin asked Rana Ratan
Singh to conduct him safely out of the fort through the seven well-guarded pols
or gates of Chittaurgarh. But the Khilji broke his word of honour by taking the
Rana prisoner out side the fort. He then sent his swordsmen galloping back to
Rani Padmini, seeking her surrender.
The queen seemed to acquiesce. She sought 700 palanquins from him, so that
she could travel with all her companions. And she sent them back to Allauddin
filled with warriors in zenana costumes. By accident, one of Allauddin's
retainers lifted the veil of one of the sahelis or companions -- to find a
well-groomed moustache under it! Inevitably, a massacre of the Rajputs ensued.
Fearing dishonour, Padmini, 16,000 of her sahelis and their children
voluntarily climbed onto a pyre in an underground passageway of Rana Kumbha's
palace -- in the ultimate self-sacrifice called jauhar!
And thus, another page was added to Rajput lore. The golden idol of the
Suryavansh is now installed in Udaipur's City Palace, where the dynasty still
`reigns'.The stones of Chittaurgarh deify Meerabai, the wife of Rana Bhojraj
and daughter-in-law of Rana Kumbha. The exquisite inner sanctum of the Kumbha
Shyam temple, with its intricately carved pillars, is enshrined in folk memory.
In her temple, the forlorn princess worshipped Lord Krishna, pining for the
lord who was not the Rana she had wed in real life.
Vish ka pyala Ranaji ne bheja/ Peevat Meera nachi re... (The Rana sent her a
bowl of poison/ Meera drank it and danced on)... The inner hall seems to echo
all our favourite Meera bhajans.
A stone's throw away, a yawning gap in the outermost wall of the fortress
allows us a panoramic view of today's prosaic town of Chittaurgarh.
In this thrice-ravaged fortress settlement, the 37-metre-high Vijay Stambh
stands proud and tall, its nine storeys rich with carved scenes from the
Ramayana and the Mahabharata -- the Gitopadesh, Arjuna's penance, the encounter
with Jatayu, the vanquishing of Ravana... It was built in 1440 by Maharana
Kumbha to mark his victories over the Muslim rulers of Malwa and Gujarat.
A short distance away stands the adorned stone facade of the 22-metre-high
Kirti Stambh or Tower
of Fame, built in the
12th century by a wealthy Jain merchant. Dedicated to Adinathji, the first of
the Jain tirthankaras, it is decorated with figures from the Jain pantheon.
``The rulers of the Suryavansh were not very educated, though they were
brave,'' explains our guide. ``The Jains kept accounts for them and wrote their
letters. As a reward, Jain temples were built for them.''
He continues with his narrative under the shade of a neem tree outside Rana
Kumbha's palace. ``You know, it was during the rule of Rana Bikramjeet in 1553
that Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat, attacked Chittaur again. The Rajputs
were outnumbered com pletely, though they fought bravely to the last man...
Finally, the jauhar at the fortress was led by Rani Karnavati, a princess from
Bundi. As the women and children climbed into the ritual fire, the valiant
warriors clad in saffron robes rode out towar ds a certain death.''
Karnavati's infant son, Udai Singh, was smuggled out of the citadel to Bundi
in a basket of fruit by a faithful maidservant, who sacrificed her own baby son
at the altar.
By the time he inherited the throne of Chittaur, Udai Singh had learnt that
discretion was a saner option than valour. When the Mughal Emperor Akbar
invaded the fortress in 1567, Udai Singh fled to establish the beautiful lake
city of Udaipur,
leaving be hind two 16-year-old heroes to defend his fortress -- they were
Jaimal of Bednore and Patta of Kelwa. The ruins of their palaces testify to
their last stand. Like most chivalrous Rajputs, these young braves died after
the jauhar at the fortress was complete.
``And then, Akbar razed the fort to rubble. Chittaurgarh was never inhabited
again,'' concludes our guide.
Except that the stones of the fortress still sing of these stories. And through
them, Chittaurgarh lives on today, peopled for all time.
(The Hindu Business Line, 2000)
No comments:
Post a Comment